{"status":true,"post":{"id":36025,"user_id":30,"status":1,"type":1,"orde":null,"notification_type":3,"static_post":0,"published_at":"2022-12-23 16:26:00","created_at":"2022-12-23T13:26:00.000000Z","updated_at":"2022-12-23T13:26:00.000000Z","edited_at":"2024-12-17 22:35:21","source_id":null,"post_id":36025,"is_featured":0,"title":"Tekstilde yeni e\u011filim \u2018Made in Africa\u2019","slider_title":null,"slider_title_2":null,"slider_spot_title":null,"slider_spot_title_2":null,"home_title":null,"sub_title":null,"category_id":73,"description":"PROF. DR. AHMET KAVAS","content":"

Afrika Kalk\u0131nma Bankas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n 2015 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Fashionomics Platformu ile haz\u0131r giyime dair \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n hayatiyet bulmas\u0131 hedeflendi. Bunun i\u00e7in de 2015-2025 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda 56 milyar dolarl\u0131k b\u00fct\u00e7e kararla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. B\u00f6ylelikle k\u0131ta kalk\u0131nmas\u0131na y\u00fczde 24 katk\u0131 \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fcld\u00fc.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Fashionomics Platformu i\u00e7in altyap\u0131da h\u00e2l\u00e2 ba\u015far\u0131lmas\u0131 gerekenler var. Ancak Afrika\u2019n\u0131n bir\u00e7ok ba\u015fkentinde d\u00fczenlenen moda festivalleri ve yeni yetenek modac\u0131lar\u0131n sahneye \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131, \u00fcmitleri art\u0131r\u0131yor. \u2018Made in Africa\u2019n\u0131n her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn kendine daha geni\u015f alan a\u00e7mas\u0131 ilgilileri sevindiriyor.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

PROF. DR. AHMET KAVAS<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Hikayesi 1885\u2019te ba\u015flayan ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin ilk ekonomi gazetesi olan \u0130stanbul Ticaret, ayn\u0131 zamanda \u00fclkemizin d\u00fczenli olarak ilk Afrika sayfas\u0131 yay\u0131nlayan ekonomi gazetesi\u2026 Dikkatli okuyucular\u0131m\u0131z hat\u0131rlayacakt\u0131r, \u0130stanbul Ticaret\u2019in 9 Aral\u0131k 2022 tarih ve 3238 say\u0131l\u0131 n\u00fcshas\u0131ndaki Afrika sayfas\u0131nda \u2018Modan\u0131n ilham kayna\u011f\u0131 Afrikal\u0131lar\u2019 ba\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile Afrika modas\u0131na bir giri\u015f yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Ancak koskoca k\u0131tadaki moda ve tekstil konusunu bir sayfaya s\u0131\u011fd\u0131rmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Bu sebeple konuya bu hafta da devam ediyoruz.<\/span><\/p>

T\u00dcKET\u0130MDE GEN\u00c7L\u0130K<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Afrika\u2019n\u0131n kalk\u0131nmas\u0131 i\u00e7in pek \u00e7ok alanda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Tekstil sekt\u00f6r\u00fc bu aray\u0131\u015fta giderek kendine alan a\u00e7\u0131yor ve \u00f6zellikle Afrika Kalk\u0131nma Bankas\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan ciddi oranda destekleniyor. \u015eimdilerde d\u00fcnya tekstil piyasas\u0131ndaki pay\u0131 y\u00fczde 1.9 gibi olduk\u00e7a d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck bir seviyede. Oysa k\u0131tan\u0131n n\u00fcfus olarak oran\u0131 y\u00fczde 17 civar\u0131nda. Bunun y\u00fczde 70\u2019ini, 30 ya\u015f alt\u0131ndaki gen\u00e7ler olu\u015fturuyor. Gen\u00e7lerin moday\u0131 takip ederek giyinenleri, n\u00fcfus ortalamalar\u0131 60-70 ya\u015f\u0131n\u0131 bulan Bat\u0131 \u00fclkelerine g\u00f6re \u00e7ok daha fazla. Gen\u00e7 n\u00fcfus \u00f6zellikle t\u00fcketen kesimi olu\u015fturuyor. Her ne kadar fabrikala\u015fma ve 4. Sanayile\u015fme Devrimi ile insan eme\u011fi bir\u00e7ok sekt\u00f6rden \u00e7ekilse de yine de insan unsurunun en fazla devrede kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 alanlardan biri tekstil olmaya devam ediyor. Gen\u00e7lerin ve kad\u0131nlar\u0131n istihdam\u0131nda en kolay i\u015f f\u0131rsatlar\u0131 yine bu alanda sa\u011flanabiliyor.<\/span><\/p>

MODA GEN\u0130\u015e ALAN<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Bir insan\u0131n kafas\u0131ndaki \u015fapkas\u0131ndan veya ba\u015f\u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fcnden aya\u011f\u0131ndaki ayakkab\u0131s\u0131na veya terli\u011fine kadar geni\u015f bir alan\u0131 dikkate almak gerekir. Hatta k\u00fcpe, kolye ya da y\u00fcz\u00fck gibi tak\u0131lar ya da k\u0131yafetlerine aksesuar olarak yerle\u015ftirdi\u011fi tamamlay\u0131c\u0131 unsurlar adeta bir b\u00fct\u00fcnl\u00fck arzediyor. Afrika\u2019da sadece ayakkab\u0131 sekt\u00f6r\u00fc y\u0131ll\u0131k 35 milyar dolarl\u0131k bir pazar olu\u015fturuyor. Bunlar\u0131n her birinin yerel tezgahlarda \u00fcretileni var ama \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu ithalat \u00fcr\u00fcnleri. K\u0131tada \u00fcretilip ihra\u00e7 edilen \u00fcr\u00fcnlerin oran\u0131 ise y\u00fczde 0.56 gibi \u00e7ok d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck bir oranda ve 2.6 milyar dolar gibi sembolik bir rakama tekab\u00fcl ediyor. Oysa ki Asya-Pasifik b\u00f6lgesi ciddi yat\u0131r\u0131mlarla y\u00fczde 60 gibi a\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 zor bir orana y\u00fckseldi. Bunun art\u0131r\u0131labilmesinin ba\u015fka \u015fartlar\u0131 var. Altyap\u0131lar\u0131n asgari seviyede de olsa tamamlanmas\u0131, rekabet ortam\u0131n\u0131n sa\u011flanmas\u0131, sanayile\u015fme arzusunun artmas\u0131, tedarik zincirlerinin kuvvetlendirilmesi, enerji a\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n giderilmesi, nakliye \u00fccretlerinin d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr\u00fclmesi, g\u00fcmr\u00fck vergilerinin makulle\u015ftirilmesi, uluslararas\u0131 ortakl\u0131klar\u0131n art\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131, bilgi ve ileti\u015fim teknolojilerinin devreye konulmas\u0131 gibi hayatiyet arz eden konular var.<\/span><\/p>

FASHIONOMICS HEDEF\u0130<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Afrika Kalk\u0131nma Bankas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n 2015 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Fashionomics Platformu ile haz\u0131r giyim sekt\u00f6r\u00fc ile ilgili \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n hayatiyet bulmas\u0131 i\u00e7in enerji ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131n giderilmesi, k\u0131ta insanlar\u0131n\u0131n yeterli beslenmesine katk\u0131, \u00fclkeleri bu alanda sanayile\u015ftirme, farkl\u0131 sekt\u00f6rler aras\u0131 entegrasyon sa\u011flama ve de t\u00fcm toplumlar\u0131n hayat kalitesini art\u0131rma hedeflendi. Bunun i\u00e7in de 2015-2025 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda 56 milyar dolarl\u0131k b\u00fct\u00e7e ayr\u0131l\u0131p belirlenen ekonomik b\u00f6lgelerde sanayile\u015fmeye a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k verilmesi kararla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131. Bu sayede k\u0131tan\u0131n kalk\u0131nmas\u0131na y\u00fczde 25 gibi b\u00fcy\u00fck bir oranda katk\u0131 verilmesi \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fcld\u00fc. E\u011fer gerekli ihtiya\u00e7lar giderilemezse bu sekt\u00f6rdeki kayb\u0131n y\u00fczde 40 gibi olmas\u0131 bilinen bir ger\u00e7ek.<\/span><\/p>

\u0130K\u0130NC\u0130 EL PAZARI<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

D\u00fcnyada en fazla ikinci el, yani giyilip belli oranda eskitilmi\u015f k\u0131yafetlerin en \u00e7ok pazarland\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00fclkeler Afrika\u2019da bulunuyor. Bu da moda end\u00fcstrisinin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki en b\u00fcy\u00fck engeli olu\u015fturuyor. K\u0131tadan g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclen pamu\u011fun i\u015flenip elde edilen k\u0131yafetlerin \u00f6m\u00fcrlerinin geri kalan\u0131n\u0131 asli vatanlar\u0131na gelip burada bir m\u00fcddet daha kullan\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra yok olmalar\u0131 da ayr\u0131 bir s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131. \u00c7inliler taraf\u0131ndan \u00fcretilen son derece kalitesiz giysilerin bir\u00e7ok ba\u015fkentte kilometrelerce uzanan tezgahlarda pazarlanmas\u0131 da Afrika \u00fclkelerinin kendi tekstil sanayilerinin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki \u00e7\u0131kmazlardan biri kalmaya devam ediyor. Yerelde onlarca dolar de\u011ferindeki bir k\u0131yafetin muadili diye \u00c7in \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc bir g\u00f6mlek, bir-iki dolara kolayca m\u00fc\u015fteri bulabiliyor. Plastikten elde edilen her t\u00fcrl\u00fc malzeme, hatta bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 filelerinin art\u0131klar\u0131 bile \u00e7evreye ciddi zarar veriyor. Nijerya\u2019da gen\u00e7 bir giri\u015fimci, plastik at\u0131klardan ayakkab\u0131 \u00fcretirken, Ye\u015fil Burun Adalar\u0131\u2019nda kad\u0131nlar\u0131n bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 filelerinin at\u0131klar\u0131ndan kuma\u015f \u00fcretmeleri, gelecek i\u00e7in \u00f6rnek al\u0131n\u0131p uygulanabilecek projeler. Avrupa ba\u015fkentlerindeki moda evlerinin vitrinlerini seyretmek bile l\u00fcks t\u00fcketim hayranlar\u0131n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck hayali. Ama onlar\u0131 tasarlayanlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda ka\u00e7 Afrikal\u0131 yetenek var d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclmez. Oralarda yeti\u015fip bu moda k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc kendi \u00fclkelerine ta\u015f\u0131yan \u00e7ok modac\u0131 ve tasar\u0131mc\u0131 var. Asl\u0131nda Afrika\u2019da moda denildi\u011finde bir heves de\u011fil, bizzat g\u00fcnl\u00fck hayat\u0131n kendisi anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r. Kelime olarak da zaten moda, modern gibi kelimeler ne ge\u00e7mi\u015fi, ne de gelece\u011fi ifade etmez, daha \u00e7ok ya\u015fan\u0131lan zaman\u0131 yans\u0131t\u0131r. Haliyle Afrikal\u0131 t\u00fcm modac\u0131lar, tasar\u0131mc\u0131lar, hatta sokak terzileri dahi yetenekleriyle ge\u00e7mi\u015fin de\u011ferlerini bug\u00fcne ta\u015f\u0131rlar, gelece\u011fe de adeta \u0131\u015f\u0131k tutarak bir ge\u00e7i\u015f yaparlar.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

FAK\u0130RL\u0130KLE M\u00dcCADELEDE \u00d6NC\u00dc MODACILAR<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Nijerya ve G\u00fcney Afrika\u2019da moda sanayi her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn geli\u015fiyor, milyarlarca dolarl\u0131k bir alanda yat\u0131r\u0131m giderek reva\u00e7 buluyor. Senegal\u2019in me\u015fhur modac\u0131lar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Adama Ndiaye, kurdu\u011fu Adama Paris markas\u0131 ile her y\u0131l Dakar Moda Haftas\u0131 d\u00fczenliyor. Oumou Sy ismini herhalde her Senegalli \u00fclkelerindeki modan\u0131n \u00f6nc\u00fcs\u00fc olarak bilir. Tunuslu Azzedine Alaia, Fasl\u0131 Karim Adduchi ve \u00f6zellikle Burkina Fasolu Chris Seydou, belki bu alan\u0131n ilk \u00f6nc\u00fcs\u00fc olarak tan\u0131nd\u0131. Hatta ona tasar\u0131mlar\u0131yla \u2018Afrika\u2019n\u0131n Yves Saint-Laurent\u2019i dendi. Bu \u00fclkede her 10 ki\u015fiden 8\u2019i mutlaka haftada bir g\u00fcn de olsa geleneksel k\u0131yafet giyer. Hatta geleneksel d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn merasimlerine kot pantolonu veya tak\u0131m elbise giyerek gidilmesi ho\u015f kar\u015f\u0131lanmaz. Nijerli Alphadi, 1998 y\u0131l\u0131nda Avrupal\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck moda evlerinin deste\u011fiyle \u00fclkesinde \u00e7\u00f6lde bir noktada Uluslararas\u0131 Afrika Moda Festivali (FIMA) d\u00fczenleyince b\u00fcy\u00fck ilgi uyand\u0131rd\u0131. Bu sene, Fas\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Rabat\u2019ta 7-10 Aral\u0131k 2022 tarihlerinde d\u00fczenlenen bu festivalin 14\u2019\u00fcnc\u00fcs\u00fc, \u2018Afrika\u2019n\u0131n geli\u015fimi i\u00e7in k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerin sinerjisi\u2019 konusu ile ilgililerini bu \u00fclkeye \u00e7ekti. Moda ile fakirli\u011fin yenilebilece\u011fini anlayan tasar\u0131mc\u0131lar, bunu kendi co\u011frafyalar\u0131nda ya\u015fatmaya \u00f6nem veriyor.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

MODA HAFTALARININ EN B\u0130L\u0130NENLER\u0130<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Afrika\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6nde gelen modac\u0131lar\u0131 ve markalar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Nijeryal\u0131 Orange Culture ve Ahluwalia, Kongolu Hanifa, G\u00fcney Afrikal\u0131 Thebe Magugu, Kamerunlu Imane Ayissi, Christie Brown, Fildi\u015fili Loza Maleombho ve Senegalli Tongoro isimleri \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. 2009-2019 aras\u0131nda \u00e7ok say\u0131da moda haftas\u0131 Afrika ba\u015fkentlerinde d\u00fczenlendi. Nijerya\u2019da Lagos Fashion Design Week ve Arise Fashion Week, G\u00fcney Afrika\u2019da South Africa Fashion Week ve African Fashion International, Gana\u2019da Glitz African Week ve Accra Fashion Week, Dakar Fashion Week, Tanzanya\u2019da Swahili Fashion Week, Etiyopya\u2019da Hub of Africa Addis Fashion Week, Tunus\u2019ta Fashion Week Tunis, Fas\u2019ta Casa Fashion Week, M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019da Cairo Fashion Week, Kenya Fashion Week, bunlar\u0131n en bilinenleri aras\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor.<\/span><\/p>

AFR\u0130KA\u2019DA KAL\u0130TE<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Ne var ki, Afrika\u2019n\u0131n varl\u0131kl\u0131 kimseleri, k\u0131yafet ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131, her birine binlerce dolar \u00f6deyerek Avrupa\u2019dan veya ABD\u2019den temin ediyor. Hatta diyasporadaki Afrikal\u0131lar da kendi k\u0131talar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcr\u00fcnlerine gereken ehemmiyeti vermiyor. Onlar i\u00e7in h\u00e2l\u00e2 Afrika\u2019da kaliteli bir \u00fcr\u00fcn elde edilemez yan\u0131lg\u0131s\u0131 devam ediyor. Oysa ki, k\u0131tan\u0131n her \u00fclkesinde bir\u00e7ok moda evi m\u00fc\u015fterilerini hem kaliteli hem de daha uygun fiyatla memnun ediyor. Hatta \u2018Made in Africa\u2019 her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn kendine daha geni\u015f alan a\u00e7\u0131yor. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>

T\u00dcRK G\u0130R\u0130\u015e\u0130MC\u0130LER\u0130N BA\u015eARISI\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Bug\u00fcn M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019da, Cezayir\u2019de, Etiyopya\u2019da on binlerce ki\u015fiye istihdam alan\u0131 a\u00e7an T\u00fcrk m\u00fcte\u015febbislerin fabrikalar\u0131, hem bu \u00fclkelerin insanlar\u0131na hem de di\u011fer k\u0131talara ciddi oranda ihracat yaparak b\u00fcy\u00fck girdi sa\u011fl\u0131yor. \u0130n\u015fa edilen fabrikalar \u00fcreticiden ta\u015f\u0131mac\u0131ya, toptanc\u0131dan perakendeciye kadar milyonlarca insana ge\u00e7im kayna\u011f\u0131 olu\u015fturuyor. 1990\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llarda Sovyetler Birli\u011fi par\u00e7aland\u0131\u011f\u0131nda kuzeyden gelen m\u00fc\u015fterilerden \u00f6nce Laleli Pazar\u0131 asl\u0131nda daha \u00e7ok Libyal\u0131 m\u00fc\u015fteriler i\u00e7in a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Libya\u2019daki toptanc\u0131lar, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den temin etti\u011fi \u00fcr\u00fcnleri bir\u00e7ok Afrika \u00fclkesine pazarl\u0131yordu. 40 y\u0131l sonra g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde art\u0131k Afrikal\u0131lar tekstil sekt\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn en vazge\u00e7ilmez m\u00fc\u015fterileri oldu. Sadece valiz ticareti de\u011fil, bir\u00e7ok Afrika \u00fclkesinden t\u00fcccar \u0130stanbul\u2019da a\u00e7t\u0131klar\u0131 kargo \u015firketleri arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla havayolu veya denizyoluyla \u00fcr\u00fcn g\u00f6nderiyor. Dahas\u0131 Afrikal\u0131lara \u00f6zel tekstil \u00fcr\u00fcnleri haz\u0131rlayan \u00e7ok say\u0131da tekstil \u00fcreticisi bulunuyor. Kaliteli ve uygun fiyatl\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnler, son y\u0131llarda Orta Asya \u00fclkeleri ile Do\u011fu Avrupa ve Ortado\u011fu\u2019da oldu\u011fundan \u00e7ok daha fazla Afrikal\u0131lar\u0131n ilgilerini \u00e7ekiyor. Hatta marka bir yana, \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn \u0130stanbul\u2019dan al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131 bile yeterli g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/span><\/p>","slug":"tekstilde-yeni-egilim-made-in-africa","tags":null,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_keywords":null,"news_cover_min":null,"news_cover":null,"news_video_min":null,"news_video":null,"view_count":1156,"cropped_1200x675":null,"user":{"id":30,"name":"AHMET","surname":"KAVAS","email":"prof-dr-ahmet-kavas@gmail.com","slug":"prof-dr-ahmet-kavas","avatar":"\/front\/uploads\/avatar\/17336916002RXDhDXyMw3kEXW.webp","status":1,"role":1,"email_verified_at":null,"orde":null,"created_at":"2022-10-24T11:09:13.000000Z","updated_at":"2024-12-18T09:44:44.000000Z","seo_title":null,"seo_description":null},"translations":[{"id":36151,"is_featured":0,"is_amp":0,"is_ads":0,"ads_link":null,"post_id":36025,"locale":"tr","category_id":73,"title":"Tekstilde yeni e\u011filim \u2018Made in Africa\u2019","home_title":null,"sub_title":null,"slider_title":null,"slider_title_2":null,"slider_spot_title":null,"slider_spot_title_2":null,"subtitleuse":0,"description":"PROF. DR. AHMET KAVAS","content":"

Afrika Kalk\u0131nma Bankas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n 2015 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Fashionomics Platformu ile haz\u0131r giyime dair \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n hayatiyet bulmas\u0131 hedeflendi. Bunun i\u00e7in de 2015-2025 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda 56 milyar dolarl\u0131k b\u00fct\u00e7e kararla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. B\u00f6ylelikle k\u0131ta kalk\u0131nmas\u0131na y\u00fczde 24 katk\u0131 \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fcld\u00fc.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Fashionomics Platformu i\u00e7in altyap\u0131da h\u00e2l\u00e2 ba\u015far\u0131lmas\u0131 gerekenler var. Ancak Afrika\u2019n\u0131n bir\u00e7ok ba\u015fkentinde d\u00fczenlenen moda festivalleri ve yeni yetenek modac\u0131lar\u0131n sahneye \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131, \u00fcmitleri art\u0131r\u0131yor. \u2018Made in Africa\u2019n\u0131n her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn kendine daha geni\u015f alan a\u00e7mas\u0131 ilgilileri sevindiriyor.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

PROF. DR. AHMET KAVAS<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Hikayesi 1885\u2019te ba\u015flayan ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin ilk ekonomi gazetesi olan \u0130stanbul Ticaret, ayn\u0131 zamanda \u00fclkemizin d\u00fczenli olarak ilk Afrika sayfas\u0131 yay\u0131nlayan ekonomi gazetesi\u2026 Dikkatli okuyucular\u0131m\u0131z hat\u0131rlayacakt\u0131r, \u0130stanbul Ticaret\u2019in 9 Aral\u0131k 2022 tarih ve 3238 say\u0131l\u0131 n\u00fcshas\u0131ndaki Afrika sayfas\u0131nda \u2018Modan\u0131n ilham kayna\u011f\u0131 Afrikal\u0131lar\u2019 ba\u015fl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile Afrika modas\u0131na bir giri\u015f yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Ancak koskoca k\u0131tadaki moda ve tekstil konusunu bir sayfaya s\u0131\u011fd\u0131rmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Bu sebeple konuya bu hafta da devam ediyoruz.<\/span><\/p>

T\u00dcKET\u0130MDE GEN\u00c7L\u0130K<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Afrika\u2019n\u0131n kalk\u0131nmas\u0131 i\u00e7in pek \u00e7ok alanda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Tekstil sekt\u00f6r\u00fc bu aray\u0131\u015fta giderek kendine alan a\u00e7\u0131yor ve \u00f6zellikle Afrika Kalk\u0131nma Bankas\u0131 taraf\u0131ndan ciddi oranda destekleniyor. \u015eimdilerde d\u00fcnya tekstil piyasas\u0131ndaki pay\u0131 y\u00fczde 1.9 gibi olduk\u00e7a d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck bir seviyede. Oysa k\u0131tan\u0131n n\u00fcfus olarak oran\u0131 y\u00fczde 17 civar\u0131nda. Bunun y\u00fczde 70\u2019ini, 30 ya\u015f alt\u0131ndaki gen\u00e7ler olu\u015fturuyor. Gen\u00e7lerin moday\u0131 takip ederek giyinenleri, n\u00fcfus ortalamalar\u0131 60-70 ya\u015f\u0131n\u0131 bulan Bat\u0131 \u00fclkelerine g\u00f6re \u00e7ok daha fazla. Gen\u00e7 n\u00fcfus \u00f6zellikle t\u00fcketen kesimi olu\u015fturuyor. Her ne kadar fabrikala\u015fma ve 4. Sanayile\u015fme Devrimi ile insan eme\u011fi bir\u00e7ok sekt\u00f6rden \u00e7ekilse de yine de insan unsurunun en fazla devrede kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 alanlardan biri tekstil olmaya devam ediyor. Gen\u00e7lerin ve kad\u0131nlar\u0131n istihdam\u0131nda en kolay i\u015f f\u0131rsatlar\u0131 yine bu alanda sa\u011flanabiliyor.<\/span><\/p>

MODA GEN\u0130\u015e ALAN<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Bir insan\u0131n kafas\u0131ndaki \u015fapkas\u0131ndan veya ba\u015f\u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fcnden aya\u011f\u0131ndaki ayakkab\u0131s\u0131na veya terli\u011fine kadar geni\u015f bir alan\u0131 dikkate almak gerekir. Hatta k\u00fcpe, kolye ya da y\u00fcz\u00fck gibi tak\u0131lar ya da k\u0131yafetlerine aksesuar olarak yerle\u015ftirdi\u011fi tamamlay\u0131c\u0131 unsurlar adeta bir b\u00fct\u00fcnl\u00fck arzediyor. Afrika\u2019da sadece ayakkab\u0131 sekt\u00f6r\u00fc y\u0131ll\u0131k 35 milyar dolarl\u0131k bir pazar olu\u015fturuyor. Bunlar\u0131n her birinin yerel tezgahlarda \u00fcretileni var ama \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu ithalat \u00fcr\u00fcnleri. K\u0131tada \u00fcretilip ihra\u00e7 edilen \u00fcr\u00fcnlerin oran\u0131 ise y\u00fczde 0.56 gibi \u00e7ok d\u00fc\u015f\u00fck bir oranda ve 2.6 milyar dolar gibi sembolik bir rakama tekab\u00fcl ediyor. Oysa ki Asya-Pasifik b\u00f6lgesi ciddi yat\u0131r\u0131mlarla y\u00fczde 60 gibi a\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 zor bir orana y\u00fckseldi. Bunun art\u0131r\u0131labilmesinin ba\u015fka \u015fartlar\u0131 var. Altyap\u0131lar\u0131n asgari seviyede de olsa tamamlanmas\u0131, rekabet ortam\u0131n\u0131n sa\u011flanmas\u0131, sanayile\u015fme arzusunun artmas\u0131, tedarik zincirlerinin kuvvetlendirilmesi, enerji a\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n giderilmesi, nakliye \u00fccretlerinin d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcr\u00fclmesi, g\u00fcmr\u00fck vergilerinin makulle\u015ftirilmesi, uluslararas\u0131 ortakl\u0131klar\u0131n art\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131, bilgi ve ileti\u015fim teknolojilerinin devreye konulmas\u0131 gibi hayatiyet arz eden konular var.<\/span><\/p>

FASHIONOMICS HEDEF\u0130<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Afrika Kalk\u0131nma Bankas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n 2015 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Fashionomics Platformu ile haz\u0131r giyim sekt\u00f6r\u00fc ile ilgili \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n hayatiyet bulmas\u0131 i\u00e7in enerji ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131n giderilmesi, k\u0131ta insanlar\u0131n\u0131n yeterli beslenmesine katk\u0131, \u00fclkeleri bu alanda sanayile\u015ftirme, farkl\u0131 sekt\u00f6rler aras\u0131 entegrasyon sa\u011flama ve de t\u00fcm toplumlar\u0131n hayat kalitesini art\u0131rma hedeflendi. Bunun i\u00e7in de 2015-2025 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda 56 milyar dolarl\u0131k b\u00fct\u00e7e ayr\u0131l\u0131p belirlenen ekonomik b\u00f6lgelerde sanayile\u015fmeye a\u011f\u0131rl\u0131k verilmesi kararla\u015ft\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131. Bu sayede k\u0131tan\u0131n kalk\u0131nmas\u0131na y\u00fczde 25 gibi b\u00fcy\u00fck bir oranda katk\u0131 verilmesi \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fcld\u00fc. E\u011fer gerekli ihtiya\u00e7lar giderilemezse bu sekt\u00f6rdeki kayb\u0131n y\u00fczde 40 gibi olmas\u0131 bilinen bir ger\u00e7ek.<\/span><\/p>

\u0130K\u0130NC\u0130 EL PAZARI<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

D\u00fcnyada en fazla ikinci el, yani giyilip belli oranda eskitilmi\u015f k\u0131yafetlerin en \u00e7ok pazarland\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00fclkeler Afrika\u2019da bulunuyor. Bu da moda end\u00fcstrisinin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki en b\u00fcy\u00fck engeli olu\u015fturuyor. K\u0131tadan g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclen pamu\u011fun i\u015flenip elde edilen k\u0131yafetlerin \u00f6m\u00fcrlerinin geri kalan\u0131n\u0131 asli vatanlar\u0131na gelip burada bir m\u00fcddet daha kullan\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra yok olmalar\u0131 da ayr\u0131 bir s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131. \u00c7inliler taraf\u0131ndan \u00fcretilen son derece kalitesiz giysilerin bir\u00e7ok ba\u015fkentte kilometrelerce uzanan tezgahlarda pazarlanmas\u0131 da Afrika \u00fclkelerinin kendi tekstil sanayilerinin \u00f6n\u00fcndeki \u00e7\u0131kmazlardan biri kalmaya devam ediyor. Yerelde onlarca dolar de\u011ferindeki bir k\u0131yafetin muadili diye \u00c7in \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc bir g\u00f6mlek, bir-iki dolara kolayca m\u00fc\u015fteri bulabiliyor. Plastikten elde edilen her t\u00fcrl\u00fc malzeme, hatta bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 filelerinin art\u0131klar\u0131 bile \u00e7evreye ciddi zarar veriyor. Nijerya\u2019da gen\u00e7 bir giri\u015fimci, plastik at\u0131klardan ayakkab\u0131 \u00fcretirken, Ye\u015fil Burun Adalar\u0131\u2019nda kad\u0131nlar\u0131n bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131 filelerinin at\u0131klar\u0131ndan kuma\u015f \u00fcretmeleri, gelecek i\u00e7in \u00f6rnek al\u0131n\u0131p uygulanabilecek projeler. Avrupa ba\u015fkentlerindeki moda evlerinin vitrinlerini seyretmek bile l\u00fcks t\u00fcketim hayranlar\u0131n\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck hayali. Ama onlar\u0131 tasarlayanlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda ka\u00e7 Afrikal\u0131 yetenek var d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fclmez. Oralarda yeti\u015fip bu moda k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc kendi \u00fclkelerine ta\u015f\u0131yan \u00e7ok modac\u0131 ve tasar\u0131mc\u0131 var. Asl\u0131nda Afrika\u2019da moda denildi\u011finde bir heves de\u011fil, bizzat g\u00fcnl\u00fck hayat\u0131n kendisi anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131r. Kelime olarak da zaten moda, modern gibi kelimeler ne ge\u00e7mi\u015fi, ne de gelece\u011fi ifade etmez, daha \u00e7ok ya\u015fan\u0131lan zaman\u0131 yans\u0131t\u0131r. Haliyle Afrikal\u0131 t\u00fcm modac\u0131lar, tasar\u0131mc\u0131lar, hatta sokak terzileri dahi yetenekleriyle ge\u00e7mi\u015fin de\u011ferlerini bug\u00fcne ta\u015f\u0131rlar, gelece\u011fe de adeta \u0131\u015f\u0131k tutarak bir ge\u00e7i\u015f yaparlar.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

FAK\u0130RL\u0130KLE M\u00dcCADELEDE \u00d6NC\u00dc MODACILAR<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Nijerya ve G\u00fcney Afrika\u2019da moda sanayi her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn geli\u015fiyor, milyarlarca dolarl\u0131k bir alanda yat\u0131r\u0131m giderek reva\u00e7 buluyor. Senegal\u2019in me\u015fhur modac\u0131lar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Adama Ndiaye, kurdu\u011fu Adama Paris markas\u0131 ile her y\u0131l Dakar Moda Haftas\u0131 d\u00fczenliyor. Oumou Sy ismini herhalde her Senegalli \u00fclkelerindeki modan\u0131n \u00f6nc\u00fcs\u00fc olarak bilir. Tunuslu Azzedine Alaia, Fasl\u0131 Karim Adduchi ve \u00f6zellikle Burkina Fasolu Chris Seydou, belki bu alan\u0131n ilk \u00f6nc\u00fcs\u00fc olarak tan\u0131nd\u0131. Hatta ona tasar\u0131mlar\u0131yla \u2018Afrika\u2019n\u0131n Yves Saint-Laurent\u2019i dendi. Bu \u00fclkede her 10 ki\u015fiden 8\u2019i mutlaka haftada bir g\u00fcn de olsa geleneksel k\u0131yafet giyer. Hatta geleneksel d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn merasimlerine kot pantolonu veya tak\u0131m elbise giyerek gidilmesi ho\u015f kar\u015f\u0131lanmaz. Nijerli Alphadi, 1998 y\u0131l\u0131nda Avrupal\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck moda evlerinin deste\u011fiyle \u00fclkesinde \u00e7\u00f6lde bir noktada Uluslararas\u0131 Afrika Moda Festivali (FIMA) d\u00fczenleyince b\u00fcy\u00fck ilgi uyand\u0131rd\u0131. Bu sene, Fas\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti Rabat\u2019ta 7-10 Aral\u0131k 2022 tarihlerinde d\u00fczenlenen bu festivalin 14\u2019\u00fcnc\u00fcs\u00fc, \u2018Afrika\u2019n\u0131n geli\u015fimi i\u00e7in k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerin sinerjisi\u2019 konusu ile ilgililerini bu \u00fclkeye \u00e7ekti. Moda ile fakirli\u011fin yenilebilece\u011fini anlayan tasar\u0131mc\u0131lar, bunu kendi co\u011frafyalar\u0131nda ya\u015fatmaya \u00f6nem veriyor.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

MODA HAFTALARININ EN B\u0130L\u0130NENLER\u0130<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Afrika\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6nde gelen modac\u0131lar\u0131 ve markalar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Nijeryal\u0131 Orange Culture ve Ahluwalia, Kongolu Hanifa, G\u00fcney Afrikal\u0131 Thebe Magugu, Kamerunlu Imane Ayissi, Christie Brown, Fildi\u015fili Loza Maleombho ve Senegalli Tongoro isimleri \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. 2009-2019 aras\u0131nda \u00e7ok say\u0131da moda haftas\u0131 Afrika ba\u015fkentlerinde d\u00fczenlendi. Nijerya\u2019da Lagos Fashion Design Week ve Arise Fashion Week, G\u00fcney Afrika\u2019da South Africa Fashion Week ve African Fashion International, Gana\u2019da Glitz African Week ve Accra Fashion Week, Dakar Fashion Week, Tanzanya\u2019da Swahili Fashion Week, Etiyopya\u2019da Hub of Africa Addis Fashion Week, Tunus\u2019ta Fashion Week Tunis, Fas\u2019ta Casa Fashion Week, M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019da Cairo Fashion Week, Kenya Fashion Week, bunlar\u0131n en bilinenleri aras\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor.<\/span><\/p>

AFR\u0130KA\u2019DA KAL\u0130TE<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Ne var ki, Afrika\u2019n\u0131n varl\u0131kl\u0131 kimseleri, k\u0131yafet ihtiya\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131, her birine binlerce dolar \u00f6deyerek Avrupa\u2019dan veya ABD\u2019den temin ediyor. Hatta diyasporadaki Afrikal\u0131lar da kendi k\u0131talar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcr\u00fcnlerine gereken ehemmiyeti vermiyor. Onlar i\u00e7in h\u00e2l\u00e2 Afrika\u2019da kaliteli bir \u00fcr\u00fcn elde edilemez yan\u0131lg\u0131s\u0131 devam ediyor. Oysa ki, k\u0131tan\u0131n her \u00fclkesinde bir\u00e7ok moda evi m\u00fc\u015fterilerini hem kaliteli hem de daha uygun fiyatla memnun ediyor. Hatta \u2018Made in Africa\u2019 her ge\u00e7en g\u00fcn kendine daha geni\u015f alan a\u00e7\u0131yor. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>

T\u00dcRK G\u0130R\u0130\u015e\u0130MC\u0130LER\u0130N BA\u015eARISI\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>

Bug\u00fcn M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019da, Cezayir\u2019de, Etiyopya\u2019da on binlerce ki\u015fiye istihdam alan\u0131 a\u00e7an T\u00fcrk m\u00fcte\u015febbislerin fabrikalar\u0131, hem bu \u00fclkelerin insanlar\u0131na hem de di\u011fer k\u0131talara ciddi oranda ihracat yaparak b\u00fcy\u00fck girdi sa\u011fl\u0131yor. \u0130n\u015fa edilen fabrikalar \u00fcreticiden ta\u015f\u0131mac\u0131ya, toptanc\u0131dan perakendeciye kadar milyonlarca insana ge\u00e7im kayna\u011f\u0131 olu\u015fturuyor. 1990\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llarda Sovyetler Birli\u011fi par\u00e7aland\u0131\u011f\u0131nda kuzeyden gelen m\u00fc\u015fterilerden \u00f6nce Laleli Pazar\u0131 asl\u0131nda daha \u00e7ok Libyal\u0131 m\u00fc\u015fteriler i\u00e7in a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Libya\u2019daki toptanc\u0131lar, T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den temin etti\u011fi \u00fcr\u00fcnleri bir\u00e7ok Afrika \u00fclkesine pazarl\u0131yordu. 40 y\u0131l sonra g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde art\u0131k Afrikal\u0131lar tekstil sekt\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn en vazge\u00e7ilmez m\u00fc\u015fterileri oldu. Sadece valiz ticareti de\u011fil, bir\u00e7ok Afrika \u00fclkesinden t\u00fcccar \u0130stanbul\u2019da a\u00e7t\u0131klar\u0131 kargo \u015firketleri arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131yla havayolu veya denizyoluyla \u00fcr\u00fcn g\u00f6nderiyor. Dahas\u0131 Afrikal\u0131lara \u00f6zel tekstil \u00fcr\u00fcnleri haz\u0131rlayan \u00e7ok say\u0131da tekstil \u00fcreticisi bulunuyor. Kaliteli ve uygun fiyatl\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnler, son y\u0131llarda Orta Asya \u00fclkeleri ile Do\u011fu Avrupa ve Ortado\u011fu\u2019da oldu\u011fundan \u00e7ok daha fazla Afrikal\u0131lar\u0131n ilgilerini \u00e7ekiyor. Hatta marka bir yana, \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn \u0130stanbul\u2019dan al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131 bile yeterli g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/span><\/p>","slug":"tekstilde-yeni-egilim-made-in-africa","orjinalimage":null,"news_cover_min":null,"news_cover":null,"news_video_min":null,"news_video":null,"cropped_638x552":null,"cropped_310x208":null,"cropped_416x247":null,"cropped_197x247":null,"cropped_416x600":null,"cropped_1200x675":null,"tags":null,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_keywords":null,"view_count":1156,"yt":0,"ytid":"","ytimage":null,"imgdate":"2000-01-01 00:00:00","cuff_cover":null,"cropped_358x214":null,"cropped_842x474":null}]}}